Anyone who has wrestled a big-tired truck into a tight parking space or threaded a traditional muscle car through a winding road understands the limitations of manual steering. Transforming to power assist transforms the experience, however not all sets are equivalent and not every vehicle responds the very same way. I have set up, tuned, and periodically returned more than a few setups throughout the years on everything from square-body Chevys to early Broncos and A-body Mopars. The very best conversions feel factory-stable at highway speed, need little effort on the wheel at low speeds, and do not present new headaches like pump whine, bump guide, or u-joint binding. The worst feel twitchy, leak early, or require consistent fiddling.
This evaluation walks through the major categories of handbook to power steering conversion alternatives, the leading players in each category, and how to pick a kit that fits your vehicle and utilize case. It likewise covers the small pieces that make or break the set up, including steering columns, an aftermarket steering shaft that really clears headers, and the best steering universal joint to deal with odd column and box angles.
Where a conversion makes the biggest impact
Manual steering can be completely serviceable on a light cars and truck with slim front tires. Add weight, larger tire contact patches, contemporary caster settings for stability, or off-road tires and manual boxes become work. A well-chosen power steering conversion kit lets you:
- Reduce steering effort at parking speed without losing road feel at 60 to 80 mph. Run more favorable caster for straight-line stability, especially on trucks that wander with stock specs.
The sweet spot consists of timeless trucks that tow sometimes, muscle automobiles with broader front rubber and modern alignment, and vintage 4x4s that see blended street and trail task. On the other end, concours remediations and lightweight sports cars might benefit more from a rebuilt handbook box and fresh geometry if creativity or simplicity outranks convenience.
The primary courses to power assist
Kits fall into several camps. Your lorry and goals will point towards one of these paths.
Retain the original steering box and include a hydraulic ram. Popular on some vintage Ford and Mopar platforms, this protects factory linkage and a handbook box with a power-assist cylinder. It keeps period look, however it includes tubes and can be finicky to tune for on-center feel. Parts are getting limited in some cases and leaks prevail if parts are combined and matched.
Swap to a factory-style power steering box. This is the most typical and frequently the most trusted. A steering box conversion kit changes the manual box with an OEM-spec or quick-ratio box. Lines and a pump complete the system. Feel can be exceptional if package ratio matches the vehicle weight and tire size. Many packages use reman boxes that differ in quality, so brand and warranty matter.
Bolt-on rack and pinion conversion. Popular for timeless muscle and some trucks where space permits, rack conversions can enhance on-center precision and frequently lower bump steer when the set is well crafted. They also maximize header space in some applications. The drawback is packaging complexity and, on some chassis, a bad tie-rod length or pivot inequality that presents bump steer if geometry is not corrected.
Electric power help on the column. This is growing quickly in specific niche circles. A column-mounted electric motor adds help without modifications to the steering box or rack. It streamlines plumbing, removes a pump, and decreases parasitic drag. It requires mindful installing, a strong column, and proper torque sensor calibration. Perfectionists may object, and high current electrical wiring plus heat management must be considered.
For this review, I focus on hydraulic conversions that the majority of lovers consider first, with notes on when a rack or electrical column makes more sense.
What separates an excellent kit from a bad one
The finest power steering conversion package is not simply a box, a pump, and a couple tubes. The details define the outcome.
First, steering geometry. A power box with the incorrect pitman arm length or spline setup can change guiding ratio at the road, making the car twitchy or lazy. Second, actual ratio and valving. A quick-ratio box in a heavy truck with 35-inch tires can feel anxious without suitable caster and high-effort valving. Third, parts quality. Pumps with sloppy tolerances cavitate. Hose pipes that lose get zip-tied near headers and stop working. An excellent kit consists of a pump bracket that aligns belts, a proper rag joint or a premium steering universal joint, and clear directions about alignment targets and bleeding procedures.
Noise is the big tell. A system that growls after warm-up, especially during low-speed steering, typically experiences aeration. Poor tank design, pipe routing that welcomes suction leakages, or a return line dumping above the fluid level will have you chasing your tail. An aftermarket guiding shaft that binds is the other warning. If you are blending columns, collapsible shafts, and headers, prepare for a double U-joint with an intermediate assistance bearing to keep angles under 30 degrees overall and under 15 degrees per joint. That little piece of planning saves hours of frustration.
Brand families and what they are known for
There are lots of labels on the market, lots of drawing from the same small group of remanufacturers. The distinctions lie in screening requirements, warranties, efficiency, and tech assistance. Below is a field-based map of typical options by vehicle type, not a comprehensive roll call.
Classic GM cars and trucks and trucks. Numerous kits use the Saginaw 700 or 800 series boxes. Borgeson and CPP have well-supported plans for A, F, and X bodies and square-body trucks. Look for boxes with the correct input shaft size to match your column coupler and an option of ratios. For square-body 4x4s, RedHead Steering's reman boxes have consistent on-center feel, though you will purchase the pump and brackets independently. If you desire a tighter ratio without losing stability, a 12.7:1 box with firmer valving works well on half-ton trucks with 31 to 33 inch tires.
Early Ford cars and trucks and Broncos. Borgeson's essential power guiding conversion is a go-to for first-gen Bronco owners who are tired of the factory ram help system. It utilizes a contemporary integral box, a pump, pipes, and the necessary column adapter. On early Mustangs and Falcons, Unisteer makes rack conversions that keep bump guide in check if set up with correct shimming. The Borgeson box tends to provide better roadway feel than many aftermarket racks on these cars, though the racks can maximize header space with particular engine swaps.
Mopar B and E bodies. Firm Feel and Steer & & Equipment have made loyal followings for remanufactured factory-style boxes with custom valving. Mopar owners tend to care about steering feel and wheel return, and these houses will develop a box for your weight, tire, and intended usage. Pumps and brackets are typically different purchases or sourced from modern Serpentine conversions.
Vintage 4x4 conversions. For strong axle Jeeps and Land Cruisers, PSC and AGR provide durable pumps, remote tanks, and boxes or Saginaw conversions intended for off-road loads. These are overkill for a street-only cruiser however shine when tires get large and steering sees high loads on rocks. With 35s and lockers, a stock-style power box can overheat or cavitate. A PSC package with a high-capacity tank, cooler, and correct hose sizes keeps help consistent.
Electric column assist. ePowerSteering and EPAS Performance offer column units for classics where hydraulic packaging is a mess or creativity matters underhood. They integrate torque sensors and speed-sensitive help in some applications. On heavy automobiles or big tires, electric help alone might feel labored at very low speeds, but for a light coupe or roadster it is elegantly basic and silent.
Real-world outcomes by platform
I will keep this practical with what tends to work on common vehicles.
GM A-body and F-body. A quick-ratio Saginaw box with matched pump is the most basic route. CPP's packages cover brackets for small block and big block, and their pumps behave if the reservoir sits greater than the pump inlet and returns are routed cleanly. Borgeson's boxes typically have tighter internal tolerances and much better on-center feel out of the box. Match the conversion with modern-day positioning specifications, plus a quality guiding universal joint to replace worn rag joints if you are running headers. The stock column can be maintained, but an aftermarket steering shaft with a double D slip area helps with engine movement and firewall program angles.
Square-body Chevy and GMC trucks. RedHead's reman box plus a Type II pump kit from a reliable source provides a solid steering feel and decreases pump whine compared to budget plan Saginaw pumps. Numerous kits include rubber pipes that balloon slightly and dampen ripple; braided stainless looks great however can transfer noise. If you tow or run larger tires, a small cooler plumbed into the return line assists fluid life.
Early Bronco. The Borgeson important box kit cleans up the front end compared to factory ram help. It brings better on-center feel and less leak points. Plan to adjust the column length and use a guiding universal joint that matches the new box input spline. The provided pump bracketry lines up on little blocks, but big block or 5.0 swaps may require customized brackets. People forget alignment: an early Bronco likes more caster than stock after the conversion, generally 4 to 6 degrees with power assist.
First-gen Mustang and Falcon. Rack conversions are common, but bump steer can creep in if the rack's inner tie-rod pivots do not line up with the lower control arm pivots. Unisteer's kits consist of spacers and directions to correct this. If you prefer a factory look and strong steering feel, the Borgeson integral box with a quality pump works well up to 245 front tires. An aftermarket steering shaft with a retractable area is recommended for security and to relieve installation around headers.
Mopar B and E bodies. A rebuilt box from Company Feel with phase 2 valving balances effort and feedback for roadway usage. Original pumps are great when healthy, but a modern pump bracket and tank streamline belt alignment. Lots of Mopar owners undervalue the rag joint; swapping to a steering universal joint improves precision, especially with stiffer suspension bushings.
Jeep CJ and YJ, old-school Land Cruisers. If you wheel, select a durable box and pump with a big reservoir and a cooler. PSC's pump and reservoir mixes withstand cavitation in slow, high-load steering. A steering box conversion package that upgrades frame support near the box is necessary to avoid cracking. A double U-joint aftermarket steering shaft with a support bearing clears headers and avoids binding across suspension travel.
The little parts that make the huge difference
A conversion that feels factory-smooth owes its manners to information most purchasers neglect up until issues appear.
Aftermarket steering elements. Not all replacement pitman arms, idler arms, and center links are equal. Usage joints from known suppliers or OE if readily available. Careless brand-new parts mess up a good box.
Steering universal joint quality. Inexpensive u-joints can bind and develop play within a year. Heat from headers speeds up grease breakdown. Quality joints from Borgeson or Flaming River, effectively lined up, last longer and feel tighter.
Aftermarket guiding shaft design. Slip areas prevent column stress when the engine rocks on its installs. For tight angles, a two-joint arrangement with an intermediate assistance bearing gives better geometry than forcing a single joint beyond 30 degrees.
Pump and pulley-block alignment. Even a couple of millimeters off will squeal and eat belts. Bracket kits that reference several installing points tend to stay lined up better than simple plate brackets.
Hose routing and reservoir choice. A remote tank with an appropriate return diffuser minimizes aeration and sound. Keep returns listed below the fluid line and far from heat. Do not install tubes where they chafe on the frame or crossmember. If area is tight near headers, utilize heat sleeves.
Bleeding treatment. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock with the engine off several times while topping the reservoir, then run at idle and repeat. Numerous installers hurry this and trap air, which appears as a whine at parking speeds.
How to match kit to driving style
Daily motorist with moderate tires. A factory-style power steering conversion set with an OEM-spec box, standard-effort valving, and a Saginaw or Type II pump is typically best. Choose a ratio in the 14 to 16:1 range for stability.
Touring and spirited back road. A quicker ratio box around 12.7:1 teamed with firmer valving offers the turn-in you want without dartiness if the vehicle runs 3 to 5 degrees of caster. Couple with a top quality steering universal joint and a solid intermediate shaft for precision.
Heavy truck or off-road. Consider high-capacity pumps with remote reservoirs, a cooler, and boxes developed for side load. Enhance the steering box install. Keep angles in the aftermarket steering shaft conservative and supported.
Show construct with a tidy engine bay. Electric column assist keeps the bay tidy and avoids tubes. It requires careful column installing and attention to electrical load. On heavy cars, hydraulic still feels stronger at parking speeds.
Testing and feel, what to expect
On-center feel. An effectively set box ought to have a minor deadband at center that transitions efficiently into help. Excessive tightness at center might suggest incorrect preload on package sector shaft. Lack of center feel suggests used linkage or overboosted valving.
Effort gradient. Preferably, effort rises decently with speed and steering angle. Too light all over recommends an overboosted pump-valve combo. Too heavy at low speeds can be pump output or a flow control issue.
Noise and heat. A warm but not hot pump body is normal. If the reservoir bubbles after a hard car park session, you have aeration. Add a cooler if heat remains high and validate return line submergence.
Straight-line stability. After a manual to power steering conversion, reconsider toe and caster. Power help allows more favorable caster, which assists straight tracking. Start with manufacturer guidelines then push caster up a degree if the wheel still wanders.
A close take a look at steering box conversion set components
A common steering box conversion kit should consist of a reman or new box, pump with brackets, wheel, pipes, and the required coupler or u-joint to mate with your column. Some include a brand-new pitman arm. Focus on:
Input shaft size. GM boxes vary in between 3/4 inch 30-spline and metric 3/4 inch 36-spline inputs. Ford and Mopar have their own standards. Select the appropriate coupler or steering universal joint to match.
Output sector and pitman arm clocking. Using the wrong arm or clocking can move your center position, lowering turning radius on one side and causing irregular steering stops. Mark the center before Aftermarket steering shaft disassembly and match it throughout install.
Pump design. Standard Saginaw pumps work, however Type II pumps are compact and set well with serpentine systems. On high-demand setups, select pumps with recognized flow and pressure specs and a tank with an anti-foaming design.
Hose end type. Inverted flare, O-ring, banjo, and AN conversions frequently mix. If you prepare to plumb with AN lines, choose a set that supports it natively. Avoid stacking adapters that welcome leaks.
Universal joint steering and angles
When you alter box location or switch to a rack, you often change column-to-box angles. Universal joint steering setups endure a finite misalignment. Keep private joint angles under approximately 15 degrees for smoothness. If you need to surpass that, include a second u-joint and an assistance bearing to break up the angle. Clock the yokes so the joints remain in phase. An out-of-phase shaft offers a bumpy feel, especially around center. Some columns utilize a retractable section for security. Maintain that function when you adapt an aftermarket steering shaft, and guarantee the slip travel goes beyond engine and body install movement.
Installation truths, two things to plan
Time and tools. Getting a set bolted on can take a long afternoon if brackets fit and lines are uncomplicated, or a complete weekend if you require to modify column length, produce an easy bracket, or route hoses around headers. You will want a pulley installer, a torque wrench, flare nut wrenches, and an approach to support the guiding column inside the cabin while you work under the hood.
Alignment and test drive. Budget plan time for a positioning later. Do not evaluate the final feel until you remedy caster and toe and re-center the wheel. Bring the automobile back after a hundred miles to reconsider for seepage at fittings and confirm belt tension as new belts seat.
Cost varieties and value
A quality hydraulic conversion with a reman box, pump, brackets, pipes, and a coupler often lands in the 900 to 1,600 dollar range for typical domestic platforms. Rack conversions run 1,400 to 2,500 dollars depending on efficiency and needed subframe or crossmember modifications. Sturdy off-road systems with big pumps, tanks, and coolers can climb to 1,800 to 3,000 dollars. Electric column help sets vary widely from 1,200 to north of 2,000 dollars, plus any column work.
The finest worth is the set that bolts on without constant rework and that consists of trusted assistance. Expect extensive guidelines, genuine torque specifications, a parts list with part numbers, and a clear guarantee. If a package leaves you hunting for a pitman arm or thinking about hose pipe ends, your time expense eliminates any savings.
Common pitfalls and how to prevent them
People typically undervalue guiding shaft geometry. A header tube, a motor mount, or a raised suspension can require uncomfortable angles. Plan for an intermediate shaft with an assistance bearing and the best steering universal joint arrangement.
Pump choice can also trip up a conversion. A pump that flows excessive at idle can make the wheel feel anxious and transfer kickback. Flow control valves are offered for some pumps, and certain kits tune this from the factory. If your box feels too light, do not assume package is wrong before you take a look at pump circulation and pressure.
Return line routing matters. A return line that disposes above the fluid level lathers the reservoir. Use a tank with internal complicated or a submerged return. Keep the line far from the exhaust and moving suspension parts.
Finally, understand your alignment targets. After a manual to power steering conversion, your car or truck can deal with more caster. That single modification frequently changes highway manners from unclear to confident.
A short purchaser's checklist
- Confirm box input and output spline specifications, pitman arm compatibility, and center position markings. Choose a pump with recognized flow and pressure specifications that match your box and tire load.
The right guiding universal joint and aftermarket guiding shaft save installation time. Prevent tight single-joint angles by adding a support bearing if needed.
Final word on feel and expectations
A good conversion ought to make the car seem like it constantly ought to have, lighter at low speeds, settled and accurate at speed. On a square-body truck with a good box and contemporary alignment, the steering wheel ought to discover center on its own after a turn, with just a hint of assist humming under heavy parking maneuvers. A classic Mustang with an appropriately spec 'd essential box needs to carve a two-lane with calm hands at the wheel, not twitch or roam. A Bronco should stop leaking from its spaghetti of hose pipes and cylinders and guide like a contemporary truck.
What gets you there is not magic. Match the steering box ratio and valving to weight and tire size. Select a pump that does not outgun the box. Develop an aftermarket guiding shaft that clears challenges with reasonable universal joint angles. Route hoses wisely with a tank that resists aeration. Complete with a positioning that makes the most of power assist. The result is a car or truck that invites miles, not just appreciation from the curb.
Borgeson Universal Co. Inc.
9 Krieger Dr, Travelers Rest, SC 29690
860-482-8283